There are two scales on the tool: outer and inner.
This should give you great cuts that come together seamlessly every time. If you still have questions after reading this guide and watching the video, please feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M-F, 8 AM to 5 PM CST) or drop us a message at orders@wenproducts.com to speak with our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>Before beginning, make sure the generator’s engine and muffler are fully cool. Make sure the engine switch and fuel valve are turned off. Disconnect the spark plug boot. If your generator has a battery, disconnect it. Make sure to have your owner’s manual on hand, as it has specific step-by-step instructions for your particular model.
First, locate the spark arrestor. It may look different on different models, but is always located on the muffler exhaust tube. Sometimes it’s held in by a Phillips-head screw on the side of the tube; other times there’s an exterior cover plate, or a ring-shaped clamp and screen.
Depending on the model, you’ll need a Phillips-head screwdriver, wire brush, and combination wrenches. You may need to remove an access panel or cover plate in order to access the spark arrestor.
Next, gently remove the spark arrestor. It’s a cone-shaped wire screen, and may be covered with black residue. Clean the spark arrestor using a wire brush.
Make sure to clean the flat end of the screen, as well as the cone-shaped body.
If the spark arrestor is damaged, it’s best to replace it. Replacement spark arrestors can be purchased here on wenproducts.com. Just find your spark arrestor's part number in your generator's owner's manual, and search the part number in the search bar above.
Finally, replace the spark arrestor in the muffler. Attach it the same way it was attached originally. If you need to reinstall any cover plates, do that before reinstalling any access panels. That’s all there is to it!
Thanks for reading. If you have any questions after reading this guide or watching the video, please feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M-F, 8 AM to 5 PM CST) or drop us a message at orders@wenproducts.com to speak with our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>On many WEN generators, the connectors and battery are easily accessible on the side of the frame. Here, they're shown with the rubber covers installed.
On other generators, you will need to remove an access panel, and on certain models, you’ll need to pull the battery out first. The connectors may be secured by a zip tie; have some wire cutters on hand to cut the zip tie, being careful not to cut the wires or the rubber covers.
Pull off the rubber connector covers, then push the connectors together, as shown below.
That’s it! If applicable, make sure to tuck all the wiring and the battery back into the generator, and reinstall any access panels. When it’s time to store your generator, simply disconnect the connectors and cover them with the rubber covers.
Thanks for reading! If you have any questions after reading this guide or watching the video, please feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M-F, 8 AM to 5 PM CST) or drop us a message at orders@wenproducts.com to speak with our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>Polishers and buffers can be broken down into three categories, depending on their polishing mechanism: rotary, random-orbit, and dual-action (DA).
The workhorses of the detailing world, rotary polishers and buffers operate on a fixed, spinning spindle. This gives it maximum power and speed, making it a great choice for professionals. Capable of tackling deep scratches, heavy rust and oxidation, severe paint defects, and other problems, these powerhouses are best used by those with considerable polishing experience, as beginners may have trouble handling the significant power they put out.
These machines take the advice given in the film Karate Kid ("wax on, wax off") and dial it up. They use a random-orbit mechanism to move the polishing or buffing pad in an oscillating, circular motion, which minimizes the risk of paint damage or swirl marks, making them great for beginners. Use them for applying wax, sealant, and polishes. If you're polishing fine furniture but don't want to do it by hand, a small buffer like the WEN 6010 6-inch Random Orbit Waxer / Polisher is a great choice.
The WEN 10PMC 10-inch Random Orbit Waxer / Polisher Kit is a great random-orbit option for beginners and professionals alike.
Commonly referred to as DA polishers, these machines combine the best of the rotary and random-orbit worlds, and are great choices for the professional and weekend warrior alike. Their pads rotate and oscillate simultaneously, giving you a great balance of correction ability, user-friendliness, and control. They're best used for moderate correction work (such as swirls and scratches) and evenly distributing compounds.
The WEN AA6158 5-inch dual action polisher is a feature-packed, well-rounded option for all skill and experience levels.
As always, it depends. Here are four things to keep in mind as you figure out which machine suits you best.
If you're newer to polishing, a buffer or DA polisher is probably the best approach, since they minimize the risk of potential damage. If you're an experienced detailer, consider a rotary polisher for its speed and power.
If you're buffing fine furniture, only use a buffer. If you're doing automotive work, a buffer, rotary polisher, or DA polisher may suit your needs best, depending on what exactly you're doing.
For heavy damage, a rotary polisher will get the job done most quickly. If you're just removing minor damage, a DA polisher is a good balance. If all you ever need is a quick touch-up shine, choose a buffer.
Consider the scale of your projects. If you plan to work on large areas, a buffer or DA polisher's larger pad size and versatility can make life easier. For smaller, intricate areas, a rotary or dual-action polisher with a smaller backing plate might be more suitable.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful guide on your journey to picking the perfect polisher for you. If you have any questions about WEN polishers or buffers, or need help deciding which one is right for you, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team
]]>When we're talking about planers, we need to be specific with what we're talking about. There are two general categories of planers: hand planers and thickness planers (often called "thicknessers" in Europe).
Hand planers can be further broken down into two types: manual hand planes and powered hand planers.
Often just called "planes", there are several different types of hand planes - jack planes, block planes, scrub planes, and more. We won't get into too much detail here about their differences, similarities, and specific uses, but they're the tool you may have seen your grandfather using. They consist of a block of wood or metal with forward and rear grips, as well as a large, very sharp blade mounted in the middle of the plane at an angle. The operator pushes the plane over the wood to remove material, smooth out rough sections, create chamfered edges, and more. Hand planes are often the tool of choice for fine woodworkers given their incredible versatility, durability, and amount of control offered, and are the least expensive of the several categories mentioned here.
Sometimes referred to as "power planers", these are basically electric versions of the traditional hand plane. Instead of having a single sharp blade mounted at an angle, they use a motor to turn a rotating cutterhead, which often features multiple blades, at very high speeds. They're capable of removing material very quickly, making them perfect for trimming down doors, creating rabbet joints, and flattening out rough or dimensional lumber. Both corded and cordless versions are available.
The WEN 20653 20V cordless brushless planer is both portable and powerful, and is part of the WEN 20V Max lithium-ion cordless power tool system.
Powered hand planers are the second-least expensive category.
Thickness planers work similarly to a powered hand planer, but instead of an operator pushing the planer over the workpiece, the workpiece is fed into the planer on a long, flat bed. Above the bed is a series of rollers that pull the workpiece into the planer and through the cutterhead, which rotates at high speeds.
The WEN PL1252 12.5" thickness planer in action.
Thickness planers are best used for taking rough stock and cutting it down to a particular thickness over the course of several passes. Some thickness planers, such as the WEN PL1303 and PL1326 13-inch thickness planers, feature onboard depth stops to easily finish wood to preset thicknesses. Planers are available in benchtop or free-standing configurations.
A planer is great for getting a piece of wood to a uniform thickness with two parallel faces, but it will not fix a warped, bowed, or cupped board. If you put a crooked board into a thickness planer, it will come out crooked. To fix it, you may need a jointer.
As mentioned, a jointer is a machine that's designed to fix up warped boards and get them square, flat, and ready for joining with other boards, or for further processing on a thickness planer or table saw. To do this, a jointer makes use of two long, flat beds on either side of a rotating cutterhead, as well as a large fence. The infeed table is set slightly lower than the outfeed table and the blades, which are level with each other. When the operator sets the board on the fence and infeed table and pushes it across the cutterhead, the blades cut the board down so that it is perfectly flat and flush with the outfeed table.
The order of operations is usually (though not always):
Jointers are available in benchtop and floor-standing configurations.
These are usually floor-standing machines (though benchtop models do exist) that combine a planer and jointer into one machine, using the same cutterhead for each function. The jointer section sits atop the planer section. They're good options for saving space in the shop, but if you're in a shop or have multiple people needing to use the planer and jointer simultaneously, it's a good idea to go with separate machines. Combination machines often cost roughly the same amount as buying both machines separately, but are more compact.
The first thing you'll need to figure out is what you'll use your new tool for. Are you making fine furniture by hand, or just looking for an inexpensive hand tool for miscellaneous tasks around the house? Go for a hand plane. If you're making surfboards, trimming doors, or remodeling the rough joists in your basement, a powered hand planer will be your new best friend. Finally building that bookcase you promised your wife you'd get around to last year? A thickness planer or jointer will be the way to go.
If you have to pick between either a planer or jointer because of budgetary or space constraints, you may want to go with a thickness planer first. Why? A few reasons:
Once you know what you need, consider the following factors.
The WEN JT833H 8-inch benchtop jointer uses 16 cutting inserts arranged in a spiral around the cutterhead for a low-snipe, high-precision finish.
Thanks for reading! If you have any questions about your WEN planer or jointer, or just need help deciding which machine is right for you, please feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
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Broadly speaking, you can break dust collection methods down into 3 categories:
A diagram showing the different types of dust collection.
Before we dive into a bit more detail, it's important to note that even if you have a great dust-collection system set up, it's always a good idea to wear proper NIOSH-appoved respiratory protection as an added layer of defense when dealing with wood dust.
Collecting dust at its source is one of the keys to effective dust management. The point-source method offers maximum versatility and portability. Usually, this method will involve one dust collector (or wet/dry vacuum) attached to one other tool at a time. When you move to the next tool, you disconnect the collector from the first tool and connect it to the second. Simple, right?
This method is often the least expensive and most modular, especially for those just beginning their woodworking journeys, or for anyone whose shop space is limited. However, it does involve a little more hassle than central dust collection - disconnecting the collector from each tool and reconnecting it can be a bit of a pain if your project requires many different types of tools to bring it to life.
The central collection method is best used by those who have large shops, or advanced / professional woodworkers. It requires more resources and time initially to set up a duct network, and obviously, the more machines it will connect to, the more time, effort, and money it will take to set up.
Generally, a central setup consists of:
If you have a small or medium-sized shop, and only need to connect to one or two machines, you probably don't need a large network of rigid tubing. You can likely get by just fine with a couple of blast gates, flexible hoses, and connectors.
The WEN DC3401 (left) and DC3474 (right) dust collectors are great for use as mobile point-source dust collectors, or can be mounted on the wall for use as central dust collectors in small to medium shops.
Keep in mind that central dust collection may require a large dust collector. Large dust collectors require large motors. Large motors require large electrical circuits. Some 120-volt dust collectors require a 20-amp or 25-amp circuit to run properly. Some dust collectors may require a 240-volt circuit, so make sure that your shop is properly wired to supply the dust collector (as well as the other machines in your shop, which will be running simultaneously). If it's not, bring in a professional electrician to help get your shop shipshape.
The WEN DC1300 1300-CFM dust collector has two 4-inch inlets for easy connection to larger networks.
Once the initial setup is done, there's very little adjustment required. Simply turn on the dust collector, adjust the blast gate network to direct airflow from the tool(s) you plan to use, and get to work.
Whether using a point-source method or central method, ambient dust collection is a great complementary option. It will not replace either of those methods, and is intended to help circulate and clear the air in your shop, not to collect dust from a tool or get it off your workbench. Most ambient dust collection is done using an air filtration system, often one suspended from the ceiling for maximum airflow. The system draws air into the housing through its filters, which capture any airborne dust, then exhausts the clean air into the shop. Look for a system capable of cycling the air in your shop several times per hour.
The WEN 3410 remote-controlled air filtration system is a great entry-level option for small to medium shops, garages, and more.
WEN offers several air filtration systems for various shop sizes; for more information, check out our helpful guide to choosing an air filtration system.
Let's shift gears and discuss a bit about the differences and relationships between pressure and flow rate. This is an essential concept to understand when selecting a dust-collection tool, so travel back to high-school physics class with us for a moment.
Pressure is force distributed over an area. In terms of dust collection, it's the "muscle" behind air movement. It's often expressed in pounds per square inch (PSI), kilopascals (kPa), or inches of water column (inWC or WC). If you prefer an electrical analogy, it's like the voltage in a circuit. When there is a pressure difference between two points in space, air flows from the area of higher pressure to the area of lower pressure. Higher pressure means more muscle, if you will.
Speaking of air flowing, the flow rate is the amount (volume) of air that moves through a given area in a certain period of time. It's often expressed in cubic feet per minute (CFM) or cubic meters per minute (CMM or m3/min). Dust collectors are often rated by CFM. Going back to the electrical analogy, it's like the current flow in a circuit. Higher CFM ratings mean more flow.
What does this mean, practically? Good question. Two things:
If you're setting up a central dust collection network, you will lose some pressure due to resistance in the system. As rules of thumb, a longer network will suffer more losses than a shorter one, and a more-complex network will suffer more losses than a simpler one. The goal is, of course, to minimize losses. To do so:
The exact numbers and calculations are a topic for another time. Keep in mind that larger-diameter ducting generally suffers less loss than smaller-diameter ducting, but is bulkier, heavier, and more expensive. If you lose too much pressure in the system, you will not collect any dust, or will collect very little.
Combining pressure and flow rate gives power. It's important to understand that two different machines can offer the same amount of air-moving power, but do so in two different ways. Maybe one has high pressure and low flow rates, and the other has lower pressure but higher flow rates. One will be suitable for some tasks, one for other tasks. Many vacuums' power levels are advertised as being a certain number of airwatts, which is a measure of power (both pressure and flow rate, related by a mathematical constant).
The WEN 20861 20V handheld vacuum has a maximum power of 94 airwatts, and is a powerful, portable part of the WEN 20V lithium-ion cordless power tool system.
Another practical example of the difference here can be seen when putting wet/dry vacuums and dust collectors head to head.
As a general rule of thumb, wet/dry vacuums offer higher pressure and lower flow rates. Dust collectors offer lower pressure but higher flow rates.
Wet/dry vacuums are often used to clean up general shop debris, wood chips, small pieces of concrete, and other miscellaneous construction detritus. Their higher pressure allows them to suck up heavier debris than dust collectors can, but they don't have very high flow rates, and are usually connected to flexible hoses. They do their best work when used as point-source collectors.
The WEN VC4710 and VC9209 wet/dry shop vacuums are ideal for cleaning up all sorts of messes at home or on the job site, and work great as point-source dust collectors thanks to their included HEPA filters.
Dedicated dust collectors, on the other hand, tend to have much higher flow rates than shop vacuums, meaning they are not as good at picking up heavy debris, but are very good at moving lots of small debris (i.e. sawdust). As we mentioned earlier, this is why wet/dry vacuums are almost never used as central dust collectors.
For general point-source collection, it's important to choose a tool that will work well for your needs. A dedicated dust collector may not perform as well as a shop vacuum when connected to woodworking machinery that produces large chips (planers, jointers, etc.), since those chips are heavier than fine sawdust. However, when used with machines that produce fine sawdust (sanders, band saws, table saws, etc.), dust collectors excel.
If you just need the basics, here they are:
Your lungs will thank you, and considering you're not tracking dust all over the house, so will your family.
Thanks for reading! If you have any questions, or need help deciding which WEN dust-management machine is right for you, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>To begin with, a transfer switch is a permanently-installed device that allows you to safely connect your generator to your home's electrical system. It isolates your generator from the power grid, so that your home is only ever energized by one power source at a time - either the generator or the grid.
WARNING! Never connect your generator directly to your home's electrical system without using a transfer switch or interlock kit, as required by local electrical codes. Directly connecting your generator like this is known as "backfeeding". It is a dangerous practice that could cause an electrical fire, as well as lead to severe shocks or electrocution for any utility linemen working to restore power to the grid. Always use a transfer switch that has been installed in accordance with all local electrical codes and the National Electrical Code by a licensed professional electrician.
Transfer switches generally come in two flavors: automatic transfer switches and manual transfer switches.
Automatic transfer switches (abbreviated ATS) are most often used with whole-home standby generators. These large generators are permanently installed near a home, usually on a concrete pad, and usually turn themselves on automatically when the power goes out. They're often sized between 5,000 - 20,000 watts (5 - 20 kW). When power is restored, the ATS switches power from the generator back to the grid. Usually, an ATS is used to provide power to every circuit in the home. If power outages are very common in your area, it's a good idea to consider investing in an ATS and standby generator.
Manual transfer switches are less expensive than their automatic cousins and are better suited for use with portable generators. Generally speaking, you should choose a generator rated for at least 3,600 watts to connect to a transfer switch.
When the power goes out, the generator is started up, then connected to the transfer switch. You can then manually switch the home's power - or, more precisely, the specific circuits connected to the transfer switch - from grid power to generator power. Once power is restored, you must shut down and disconnect the generator, then manually switch power back over to the grid.
For the rest of this article, we'll focus on manual transfer switches.
The first step in choosing a transfer switch is understanding your energy needs. Figure out which appliances or devices you want to power in the event of a power outage. For example, it's a good idea to be able to power a refrigerator or freezer (if needed for medical supplies or food), some lights and fans, the furnace and/or air conditioner, and maybe a TV or computer.
Once you have a complete list of the devices you want to be able to run in the event of an outage, take note of each device's voltage. Most household devices that plug into wall outlets run on standard 120-volt AC power. Some larger plug-in appliances, such as washers, dryers, and ovens, may run on 240-volt AC power. HVAC equipment (such as air conditioners and furnaces) is often hardwired into the electrical system; "hardwired" means it doesn't plug into a wall outlet.
Determine the amount of power (in watts) each device requires. Usually, this is printed on the device's nameplate label. If it isn't, you can get a reasonable estimate by multiplying the device's rated voltage by its amperage. For example, a device rated for 120 volts and 5 amps usually requires approximately 600 watts (120 x 5).
Certain devices, especially those with onboard motors or compressors, need extra bursts of power to start up. This includes refrigerators, air compressors, power tools, and others. Make sure to account for this in your calculations.
An estimated wattage chart for common household devices. All electronics and appliances are built differently, so always check the wattage listed on your electrical devices before relying on this chart.
Once you know all your devices' voltage and wattage requirements, make sure to choose a transfer switch that is capable of handling all voltages required, as well as at least the total amount of wattage needed. For example, if all your devices together require 5000 watts, and you have a mix of 120-volt and 240-volt devices, make sure to choose a transfer switch that can be used with both 120-volt and 240-volt devices, and that is rated for at least 5000 watts.
NOTE: Some transfer switches are rated in amps, rather than watts, so double check before purchasing. It's a good idea to err on the side of caution if you have both 120-volt and 240-volt devices to power; for example, a 240-volt device drawing 5 amps uses the same amount of electrical energy as a 120-volt device drawing 10 amps. In this case, you would use the 10-amp figure in your calculation of how much amperage you need.
Also make sure that your generator is capable of providing at least the wattage you need, if not more. For more information, you may want to read our helpful article on choosing a generator.
Below are some features you may want to look for when purchasing a transfer switch. This isn't necessarily a complete list - there may be other features that are important to you.
The NEMA L14-30R outlet on the control panel of a WEN DF875iX dual-fuel open-frame remote-start inverter generator.
A typical manual transfer switch installation involves 5 components: a generator, an extension (connection) cord, an inlet box, the transfer switch, and your home's electrical panel.
A diagram showing the typical connection of a generator to a home's electrical panel using a manual transfer switch.
The generator (which should always be positioned at least 20 feet from the house, as well as away from doors, windows, and vents) is connected via an extension cord to the inlet box, which is permanently installed on the outside of the house, preferably close to the transfer switch and electrical panel. The inlet box is hardwired through the wall, indoors to the transfer switch. The switch itself is usually mounted on the wall near the electrical panel, and is hardwired into certain circuits in the panel.
NOTE: Some transfer switches do not require an inlet box. These transfer switches have NEMA 3R, 4 or 4X enclosures, and are mounted on an exterior wall, as close to the electrical panel as possible.
The transfer switch should always be installed by a licensed professional electrician in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and all local electrical codes, as well as the National Electrical Code. The electrician will handle most of the following, but it's good to be aware of them as well:
For easy reference, here's the diagram again, showing a typical generator and transfer switch setup.
Operate the transfer switch as instructed in your owner's manual. Generally, this goes as follows:
When power comes back on, you'll generally:
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful resource as you search for a transfer switch. If you have any questions about using WEN generators with your transfer switch, consult your owner's manual, or please feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
Bench grinders are some of the handiest tools you can have at your disposal. From grinding to reshaping to sharpening, they're workhorses when it comes to caring for and repairing metal implements of all kinds. Sharpening knives, chisels, lawnmower blades, axes, scissors, and more is a breeze with one of these helpful machines in your garage or shop. Here, your friends at WEN have put together some helpful pointers on how to choose and use a bench grinder.
Grinders are usually broken down into two types: wet/dry sharpeners or grinders, and standard bench grinders and buffers.
Wet/dry sharpeners are usually used for sharpening tools that don't need a lot of heavy corrective work. They incorporate an onboard water storage tank to cool a fine-grit abrasive stone, and many often include a leather stropping wheel for final honing and burr removal.
The WEN BG4270T 10-Inch wet/dry sharpening system is a quiet, precise, all-in-one sharpening center.
Wet/dry sharpeners are great for sharpening kitchen knives, woodworking chisels, scissors, and axes to a razor-sharp finish. They usually run at a slow speed and use a very fine-grit wheel, meaning they don't take off much material at a time, but offer superior control.
These are the bench grinders you may have seen in your high school shop class, and are the type of grinders we'll be focusing on for the rest of this article. They usually consist of a central motor housing, a sturdy cast-iron or cast-aluminum base, and grinding or buffing wheels on each side of the motor housing.
The WEN BG4282 bench grinder being used to sharpen a wood chisel.
Bench grinders usually incorporate a series of tool rests, as well as wheel guards and eye guards, to offer better control and help guard against sparks and flying debris. They usually come with aluminum-oxide or other abrasive grinding wheels, and are used for heavy material correction and removal. Usually, they include a low-grit (often 30 - 40 grit) and a medium-grit (often 60 - 80 grit) wheel. Replacement wheels and other accessories, such as wire wheels, are readily available.
Buffers and polishers usually eschew guards and tool rests in favor of an open design, which offers excellent access to their woven-fabric wheels. These machines are great for finishing, buffing, and polishing metals, plastics, and some woods, and usually require their wheels to be charged with buffing compound before use.
When choosing a bench grinder, make sure to take a few factors into consideration.
Bench grinders are usually measured by the diameter of their wheels. For example, a 6-inch bench grinder uses 6-inch-diameter wheels; an 8-inch bench grinder uses 8-inch-diameter wheels.
Generally speaking, 8-inch bench grinders are larger, heavier, and often both more expensive and more powerful than their 6-inch counterparts. They usually offer more working area and a stronger motor, and are best suited for heavy-duty or professional jobs.
6-inch grinders are versatile, compact, portable machines that are great for most general-purpose tasks around the house, but they may not hold up to the demands of a production environment. However, they're usually less expensive than their 8-inch cousins, and take up very little room on your workbench.
Bench grinders' motors are measured in amps - the amount of current they're rated to handle in operation. Generally, more amperage equates to more power to handle heavy-duty grinding tasks.
Choose a bench grinder with an induction motor - they run cooler, quieter, and much longer than other motor types.
Most bench grinders run between 3450 - 3600 RPM, but slow-speed models are also available. These units offer maximum precision and control, and because they run at a slower speed (usually around 1725 - 1800 RPM), they tend to cause less heat buildup in the workpiece being sharpened. This helps with longer edge retention and longer life for cutting implements.
The WEN BG4286 3-amp 8-inch slow speed bench grinder runs at 1725 RPM, offering maximum control and minimum heat buildup.
Variable-speed models, such as the WEN BG4280 and BG625V, are also available. These models use electronic controls to precisely dial in the motor speed so that it's perfectly tuned for the task at hand. However, this precision and versatility means that a variable-speed model will usually command a higher price than an equivalent single-speed model.
The WEN BG625V 6-inch variable-speed bench grinder is great for sharpening lawnmower blades, knives, chisels, scissors, and more.
Other features to keep an eye out for include:
Always make sure to read your owner's manual completely and follow its instructions. Below are some general tips.
One other tip - if you're sharpening an existing edge, consider marking it with a permanent marker. That way, while keeping a consistent angle, you can see which parts have already been ground and which have not - marked sections will need more attention.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful guide on your journey to choosing a bench grinder. If you have any questions about WEN bench grinders or wet/dry sharpeners, or need help deciding which one is right for you, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>Your owner's manual is packed with useful details and information regarding safe operation, proper maintenance procedures, service intervals, and more. Keep the manual handy, and refer to it often. If you need a copy of a WEN generator's manual, you can search your generator's model number in the search bar at the top of the page. The most recent manual edition is posted on each WEN generator model's webpage.
This is perhaps the most important thing you can do to prolong your generator's life and make sure it works whenever you need it to. We recommend running your generator once a month for 20 - 30 minutes. Plug a load in to make sure it's producing electricity. If you have a few days' warning before a potential power outage, hurricane, or winter storm, test your generator as soon as possible so it's ready to go if the power goes out.
If you find yourself needing to exorcise your generator regularly, please consult a trusted religious authority figure.
It may seem obvious, but this is an oft-neglected aspect of owning a generator that will save you headaches down the road.
Your generator's owner's manual should have additional details on proper and safe storage procedures.
We already mentioned it, but it's worth repeating. Blocked or dirty carburetors are perhaps the most common problem generator owners run into, and draining the carburetor helps prevent it, since doing so drains out any fuel that may deteriorate and cause problems.
If your carburetor is blocked or dirty, the generator will run poorly at best, and may not even start. If that's the case, clean the carburetor or replace it.
Just like with your car, preventative maintenance goes a long way and helps head off most problems before they arise. WEN generators' owner's manuals contain helpful charts and detailed procedural instructions for handling routine maintenance. A summary is below.
After several hundred hours, it's a good idea to check the valve clearances and adjust them if necessary. If you need assistance with this procedure, please feel free to contact us.
Running your generator at maximum capacity all the time puts undue stress and wear on the engine, and will lead to a decreased service life. Obviously, there will be times where your generator will need to step up to get you through a rough spot, but if possible, keep the load on your generator at or below 90% of its rated wattage.
If you'll be operating your generator at high altitudes, use a high-altitude kit.
In short: read your owner's manual, follow its recommendations, and use common sense. That should get you through the vast majority of issues that may arise.
Thanks for reading! If, after reading this article and your owner's manual, you have any questions about how to maintain your WEN generator, please feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>No. Don't expose your generator to moisture, as it significantly raises the risk of electric shock. If you need to run your generator during inclement weather, consider one of the following options:
There are products on the market that claim to allow generators to be run in rain or snow, but WEN Products does not endorse their use.
A generator cover is intended for keeping your generator protected during indoor storage. DO NOT use a generator cover on a generator while it is running, or when it has a hot engine, as this is a fire hazard.
No. WEN generators have a low-oil shutdown switch that prevents you from doing this. Running any engine without oil will severely damage or destroy the engine, and could injure you or someone else.
Make sure you use the proper type of engine oil as well. Read your owner's manual for more details. Synthetic oil is best, but conventional oil is fine too.
Your generator will run without using a grounding rod, but as discussed above, to maximize safety, we do recommend using a grounding rod. Read your owner's manual for more details.
If you'll be using only a few things at a time, and those items have cords and plugs on them, use an extension cord. Make sure to keep your generator outside and far away from doors and windows, and make sure your extension cord is properly sized to handle the load(s) you plan to apply.
If you'll be using many items simultaneously, or anything hardwired into your home's wiring, you'll need to have an electrician install a transfer switch, as discussed above. NEVER plug a generator directly into a home's wiring without a transfer switch.
No. A hot engine can ignite gasoline fumes. Yes, it's inconvenient when the power is out to shut off the generator, but doing so and letting it cool before refueling is best, and also reduces the risk of accidental burns.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful refresher on staying safe when operating your generator. If you have any other questions, check your generator's owner's manual. If you still need assistance with your WEN generator, please feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
Log splitters can be broken down into three categories - manual, kinetic, and hydraulic. In this article, we'll focus mainly on hydraulic log splitters, but we'll touch on manual and kinetic splitters briefly, for the sake of thoroughness.
A manual log splitter is usually a simple device with no external power source. A maul and wedge is perhaps the simplest version, but essentially, any device that uses unassisted human power to split wood could be considered a manual log splitter. These devices are usually basic and inexpensive, but take a considerable amount of effort to use if you're splitting any significant amount (a quarter cord or more) of firewood.
A kinetic log splitter uses an external power source (often an electric motor, although gas-engine models exist too) to spin up one or more large flywheels, which store kinetic energy. When you're ready to split wood, you drop a lever that engages the flywheels with the splitter ram. The ram smashes forward at high speed and splits the wood against the splitting wedge. These splitters are generally middle-of-the-road options, in terms of price, and usually have less power than hydraulic splitters.
A hydraulic log splitter is perhaps the type of splitter that comes to mind first. They use an external power source (usually an electric motor or gasoline engine) to turn a pump. The pump is connected to a hydraulic system, which is connected to a ram. The ram moves forward as the pump turns, slowly and surely pushing against the wood with incredible amounts of force. Hydraulic log splitters are available at a wide range of price points and splitting capacities, and may require a bit more maintenance than other types.
Log splitters are rated by tonnage (for example, you might hear about a 6-ton or a 30-ton log splitter). This is the maximum amount of force that they can exert. The amount of force needed to split a given piece of wood depends on four factors: hardness, age, size, and dryness.
To summarize, if you're able to cover your wood and let it dry out for a while, as well as get it into somewhat-smaller pieces (a chainsaw may come in handy here), you'll have an easier time splitting it, not to mention getting it onto the splitter. You can also use the handy chart below as a reference for common species.
Using an undersized log splitter to split very large, hard, green, and/or wet workpieces can be frustrating at best (since multiple passes may be required to split the workpiece, which is time-consuming), and dangerous at worst, since you could damage the log splitter by overloading it. Keep in mind that you may need more power in the future to split larger or harder wood, so if your budget allows, it may be a good idea to buy a splitter with a little more power than what you currently need.
Hydraulic log splitters generally come in three flavors: manual, electric, or gas-powered.
Usually, these hydraulic splitters consist of a small splitting beam, a small hydraulic cylinder, and a way to advance the cylinder, often using a series of pedals and levers that works a lot like the elliptical at your gym. They harness good-old-fashioned sweat equity to slowly advance the hydraulic ram. Although they have lower tonnage ratings than their powered brethren, they're often relatively inexpensive, extremely portable, and very easy to store.
These splitters use an electric motor (usually an induction motor) as a power source, and as such usually require an extension cord. They're a good blend of power, portability, and convenience - to a point. That extension cord tethers you to a nearby outlet, whether it's on your house or generator. However, they're low-noise, low-maintenance, easy to store, and good all-around options for most homeowners looking to split a few pieces of wood here and there for campfires.
The WEN 56208 6.5-Ton electric log splitter features a stand for convenient waist-high operation, as well as wheels for maximum portability.
Gas-engine splitters are usually the most powerful options available on the market, with options ranging from 20 - 40 tons. They often include DOT-approved wheels and chassis, as well as trailer hitches, for towing behind a car, truck, or off-road vehicle. Many models can also be used in either the vertical or horizontal position, which makes them extremely versatile. If you'll be far from an electrical outlet (for example, at a remote cabin), if you need the tonnage, or if you split lots of wood each season (especially if a wood-fired stove is your main heat source), a gas-engine powered splitter is likely best for you. Keep in mind that the gas engine requires more maintenance than an electric motor, these models are generally more expensive than electric or manual models, and they take up a lot of storage space.
Once you have an idea of your budget, the tonnage you need, the type of splitter that will suit you best, and the power source that will work for you, you're all set. Good luck on your search, and stay warm out there!
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful guide on your journey to choosing a log splitter. If you have any questions about WEN log splitters, or need help deciding which one is right for you, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Now go make some firewood!
]]>Keep in mind that different types of saws can often be used to accomplish the same task. Some are just better suited to certain tasks than others. In this article, we'll limit our discussion to certain types of powered saws, namely:
The WEN BA3959 9-inch band saw (left) and WEN 20670 brushless cordless jig saw (right). Not to scale.
Despite their names, neither saw is very good at playing music. Terrible jokes aside, there are some important differences and similarities between the two.
The most important thing these saws share is their general purpose. Both band saws and jig saws are great for cutting out curved shapes in workpieces, and are more than capable of handling straight cuts as well. But that's about where the similarities stop.
Good question. A scroll saw is a benchtop machine that is better for fine or extremely-fine detail work than a jig saw. Like a jig saw, it has a blade that moves up and down. However, scroll saw blades are very fine, and scroll saws are benchtop machines equipped with large tables for workpiece support. Unlike a band saw, a scroll saw is capable of making interior cuts. They are best suited for fine detail work, such as intarsia, inlay, marquetry, or fretwork. If you need to remove a lot of material, consider using a different saw to get the material cut down quickly - scroll saws aren't designed to do lots of rough cutting.
Detailed interior cuts are easy with the WEN LL2156 parallel arm scroll saw.
Below are some general rules of thumb that may help you choose which saw to use for each project type. It's a good idea to practice on some scrap wood, similar or identical to what you plan to use for your project, to get the hang of the tool(s) you decide to use.
Also check out our helpful article on band saws for an in-depth discussion of the various types of band saws and their uses.
The WEN TT1015 table saw and WEN TT1088 table saw stand are great for rip cuts, crosscuts, and more on the job site.
The WEN CT1065 6.5-inch track saw (left) and WEN 20625 cordless circular saw (right). Not to scale.
Like the band saw and jig saw, these three saw types share some similarities and differences.
Again, all these saws share a similar purpose: they are excellent for long, straight rip cuts, especially in sheet goods like plywood. They can also be used for cross-cuts in other materials. Again, this is about where the similarities stop.
Again, circular saws and track saws are very similar. Both are portable saws, may be cordless or corded, and need an operator to push them through a workpiece. However, there are a few key differences:
Track saws can be brought wherever they're needed. The tracks can be clamped to the workpiece, making them great for craftsmen who demand high precision and accuracy, but who may not have access to a table saw. They're often used for ripping sheet goods, especially in cabinetmaking, and for installing hardwood flooring.
The WEN CT1065 track saw is a great combination of precision and portability.
Circular saws are good all-around options, and are excellent for quick cross-cuts, though they're very capable of handling rip cuts as well. If you have a limited budget and can only pick one option, a circular saw works well in most situations.
The WEN 20625 cordless circular saw is compact and highly versatile.
Below are some general rules of thumb that may help you choose which saw to use for each project type.
Thanks for reading! We hope these tips help you feel more confident in choosing the right tool for the job. If you have any questions about any WEN saws, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Go make some sawdust!
]]>Broadly speaking, sanders can be categorized by whether they are handheld, benchtop, or floor-standing machines.
Some of the sanders we'll go through in this article can fall under more than one category - for example, a belt sander could be a handheld or a benchtop model. Other times, multiple sanders are combined into one machine, like on a belt/disc sander.
Perhaps the most common type of sander, and maybe the one that came to mind first, palm sanders and random-orbit sanders aren't necessarily two different things. A palm sander just means it's a handheld machine, usually held under your palm while you use it. Random-orbit refers to the action of the sanding pad; it simultaneously spins in a circle, while a mechanism inside the sander moves the pad around in very small, tight circles. The combination of these two movements means that same area of sandpaper rarely (if ever) passes over the same area of the workpiece, reducing the chances of swirl marks or burning on the workpiece.
Palm sanders come in a few different sub-types:
The WEN 20405 20V Max brushless 5" random orbit sander is a compact powerhouse in a cordless package.
Versatile and powerful, belt sanders are found in handheld, benchtop, and floor-standing versions; benchtop and floor-standing models are often combined with disc sanders. They use a long, wide sanding belt to quickly remove lots of material, or flatten relatively large areas. They're great for freehand shaping as well.
The WEN HB6319 3" x 18" handheld belt sander is a versatile workhorse, great for stripping paint, touching up rough floors, and more.
Essentially smaller belt sanders, file sanders take their names from the traditional hand file that they resemble, and are exclusively handheld machines. They use a long, thin sanding belt to precisely remove a certain amount of material, or to remove it from a very specific area. They're great for getting into tight spaces, and are very popular for auto body detailing as well. They often come in cordless or corded versions.
The WEN 20437 20V Max cordless variable-speed file sander is lightweight, maneuverable, and conveniently cordless.
Disc sanders are generally benchtop machines, although floor-standing versions exist as well. They are often combined with belt sanders, and are great for smoothing out end grain in wood, or for light metal shaping. Use them for shaping straight- or miter-cut workpieces, or getting a nice exterior curve.
The WEN 65812 12" disc sander features a direct-drive induction motor for heavy-duty sanding applications.
Oscillating spindle sanders are extremely popular with woodworkers requiring a sanded finish on outside or inside curves, and are generally benchtop machines (though handheld versions are also available). They use a series of differently-sized drums to sand workpieces, and are great for making guitars, cutting boards, and other projects - especially ones with inside (concave) curves. While spinning, the drums move up and down (hence the name "oscillating") using a series of belts and pulleys. This helps prevent burning on the workpiece. Some models, such as the WEN 6524, also include an interchangeable sanding belt for larger workpieces.
The WEN AT6535 oscillating spindle sander features a large, beveling cast-iron table for maximum stability and versatility.
Drywall sanders are used for (what else?) sanding joint compound when doing drywall work. They come in smaller handheld and larger pole-mounted configurations; handheld models are great for eye-level or lower jobs, whereas pole-mounted models excel at ceiling or high-wall work. These sanders should always be paired with a dust extractor or vacuum (preferably with a HEPA filter) due to the large amounts of dust created when sanding joint compound. Some models, such as the WEN DW5084, come with interchangeable heads to make getting into corners easier than ever.
The WEN DW6395 variable-speed drywall sander has a mid-mounted motor to improve the sander's balance and reduce operator fatigue.
Drum sanders are usually floor-standing machines, though benchtop machines exist as well. They operate similarly to a thickness planer; instead of blades, however, they're equipped with a strip of sandpaper wrapped around a drum to sand a workpiece down to an exact thickness and get an excellent finish. They are best suited for advanced woodworkers and production shops who require high degrees of precision and accuracy with their finished workpieces.
The WEN 65911 10-inch drum sander is great for woodworkers who demand serious precision and serious power.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful introduction to the various types of sanders on the market, as well as how best to use them. If you have any questions about which WEN sander is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M - F, 8 - 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Now go make some sawdust!
]]>Air filtration systems are great for helping to control airborne dust and other particulate matter. In woodworking, they are just one component of an effective dust management system, which should include, at a bare minimum:
These tools - especially point-source dust collection - are essential in keeping the worst volumes of sawdust out of the air and out of your lungs. However, no system is perfect, and that is where an air filtration system comes in. They're good at picking up very fine (< 5 micron) dust and other particulate matter suspended in the air, before it settles onto everything in your shop or garage. They will not pick up dust that's already settled. For more information, check out our helpful article on dust collection 101.
Air filtration systems, much like dust collectors, are primarily described by their flow rates, which is a measure of how much air they can move in a certain amount of time. Usually, this is a number given in cubic feet per minute (CFM). The higher the CFM number, the more air it moves per minute. This means that a higher-CFM system will circulate a given amount of air through itself more times per minute than a lower-CFM system. For larger work areas, a higher-CFM system is best. We'll get into selection methods later.
Another highly important rating when selecting a system is its filtration rating, often given in microns. A micron is one millionth of a meter, or about 0.00004 inches. A human hair is about 50 microns wide, and most wood dust is usually between 10 - 30 microns in size, depending on how it was produced.
Look for a filtration system that filters down to at least 1 micron. The smaller the number, the better the filtration, since the system will catch smaller particles. A 2-micron particle, for example, will likely pass through a 5-micron filter, but will be caught by a 1-micron filter. WEN air filtration systems use a 5-micron primary filter for large particulate matter and a 1-micron secondary filter to catch finer irritants.
Some air filtration systems (or, more precisely, their filters) may be described using a MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) number. This number is assigned to a filter based on its performance in a standardized particle filtration test created by ASHRAE (the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air-Conditioning Engineers). You may have seen a MERV number before when replacing the filters in your furnace. It's a good way to get a roughly apples-to-apples comparison when comparing filters.
HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filters can "theoretically remove at least 99.97% of dust, pollen, mold, bacteria, and any airborne particles with a size of 0.3 microns" from the air, according to the EPA. They're extremely good at filtering out small particles, but may require appliances using them to work harder, since it is harder to pull air through their filter media.
WEN air filtration systems use one of two remote control methods: infrared (IR) or radio-frequency (RF). Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.
IR systems work a lot like your TV remote - you have to point the remote at the system when turning it on or off, or it won't receive the signal. With an RF system, you can simply press the remote's button without pointing it at the system. This makes RF great for mass-controlling multiple units with one remote. IR units, on the other hand, can be individually controlled, which makes them a great option if you need to turn multiple machines on or off in very specific configurations. IR is also usually less expensive than RF.
If you're looking to filter out particulate matter, like wood dust or pet dander, look for a standard mechanical filter. These filters come pre-installed on all WEN air filtration systems, and are great for general-purpose use. If you're trying to remove allergens, smoke, or smells from the air, you may want to purchase an activated-carbon air filter. These filters contain a layer of activated carbon on the filter media to help reduce or eliminate volatile organic compounds (VOCs), allergens, and odors.
Now that you have the background knowledge you need, it's time to put it all together. Start by measuring your room in feet and inches. Convert inches to feet by dividing by 12 (for example, 10 feet 9 inches is 10.75 feet). Then multiply the measurements according to the formula below.
Room volume = length x width x height
Keep this number in mind. You'll want to circulate this volume about 7 times per hour at a minimum, as a good rule of thumb. Multiply this number by 7, then divide by 60. This will give you the minimum flow rate (in cubic feet per minute, or CFM) that you need.
Minimum CFM needed = (volume x 7) / 60
If you want better filtration, multiply the room volume by 8, 9, or however many times per hour you want the air in the room circulated. 7 is a good minimum.
As an example, let's use a standard one-car garage with a 10-foot ceiling. The room volume will be 12 x 20 x 10, or 2,400 cubic feet. (2,400 x 7) / 60 works out to 280 CFM. The WEN 3410 air filtration system may be a good fit for a room this size, since it runs at speeds of 300, 350, and 400 CFM.
Once you have the system size and filter type figured out, decide where and how you'll place or mount the system. Air filtration systems work best when they're suspended from the ceiling by chains (as they can circulate the air in the room most effectively), but they can also be mounted directly to the ceiling or a wall, or they can sit on a bench.
Keep in mind the advantages and disadvantages of IR and RF, and decide which one works best for your needs.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful starting point in your journey to choosing an air filtration system. If you have any questions about which WEN air filtration system is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>Total harmonic distortion (THD from here on out) is an important concept in signal, electrical, and electronics engineering, and is measured in percent (%). It's the total amount of distortion in an electrical signal caused by the presence of harmonics within that signal. Without getting too technical, harmonics are multiples (2x, 3x, 4x, etc.) of the signal's fundamental frequency - the lowest frequency of a repeating waveform.
Let's take a concrete example. The power that comes out of the wall sockets in your house is AC (alternating current) power. You may also have heard of DC (direct current) power. The difference is that AC power changes (alternates) over time, whereas DC power stays basically the same. An example of an AC (orange) and a DC (blue) signal is shown below.
AC (orange) vs. DC (blue) power. The AC signal shown here is in the shape of a sine wave. More on that later.
The AC power in your house is set to a standard frequency, which is a measure of how often the signal repeats, as well as a standard voltage. In the US, AC power is standardized at 120 volts, repeating 60 times per second (60 Hertz, abbreviated Hz).
Still with me so far? Good. This is where harmonics come in. In your home's power, if you measured and graphed it, that 60Hz signal wouldn't be totally perfect. It would have some slight distortion in it. That distortion comes partially from harmonics, which in this case, would be components of the signal at 120Hz, 180Hz, 240Hz, etc. - all multiples (2x, 3x, 4x, like we mentioned earlier) of the fundamental frequency, which in this case is 60Hz. If you were to do some math on the measurements you take (which is too complicated to dive into here), you would be able to calculate the THD.
Depending on where and how your power is produced, the load on the power grid, temperature, the age of your home's wiring, and many other factors, the THD in your home's power may vary. Usually, it's about 2% to 3% on any given day for most municipal locations.
Good question. The higher the THD, the "dirtier" the power. The presence of those extra harmonics can cause some unintended side effects, including excessive heating and excessive radio interference, and some sensitive electronic devices (such as smart devices, computers, TVs, etc.) may not work properly or at all, since they tend to expect "clean" (low-THD) power, such as what you get from your wall outlets.
So what does this mean for you, dear reader? It means that if you're looking for a generator or power station, you need to know a few things:
Our helpful articles on how to choose a generator, how inverter generators work, and advantages of inverter generators may be handy resources. If you have any sensitive electronics that you need to power, you should strongly consider an inverter generator, or a high-quality portable power station, since they tend to produce low-THD power. Look for the phrase "sine wave" or "pure sine wave" in the specifications list.
Generators are usually less expensive per watt than portable power stations, and are often capable of producing more power overall. However, this comes with added weight, maintenance, noise, and emissions requirements. If you're looking for a small power source to take camping, or just something to keep your phones and tablets charged during a brief power outage, a power station may be the way to go. If you need more power, or don't want to spend as much money per watt, a generator is probably the better bet.
Generally, traditional generators produce AC power with a THD between 5% and 20%, depending on the amount and type of load applied. WEN inverter generators and portable power stations produce very-low-THD AC power, usually under 1.5%, since they use pure-sine-wave inverters, which are devices that (as the name implies) create AC power whose signals are pure sine waves. Other generators or power stations may use inverters that create square wave or modified sine wave power; a diagram of all three types of power is below. Pure-sine-wave power is ideal. Square-wave or modified-sine-wave power may damage sensitive devices or contribute to a shorter lifespan, since they have much higher THD values - a square wave's THD is about 48 percent!
A comparison of pure-sine-wave (orange), modified-sine-wave (blue), and square-wave (green) AC power. All WEN inverter generators and portable power stations produce pure-sine-wave AC power, often at a higher quality than what you get from the grid.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful resource in understanding generator power a little better. If you have any questions about which WEN generator is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
When starting your journey, here are some of the important terms you need to know to compare your options.
Most tools' names are self-explanatory (e.g. roofing nailers are used for roofing, flooring nailers are used for flooring, etc.), but some other nailer and stapler types are not as clear. For example:
The WEN 61764 16-gauge pneumatic finish nailer is the perfect companion for many general remodeling and finishing tasks.
18-gauge brad nails loaded in the magazine of the WEN 61722K 2-in-1 brad nailer and stapler.
Other tools, like framing nailers, can be used for a variety of different jobs, such as framing a house (which is where they get their name) or building a deck.
Most tools' names describe the size of fasteners used. There are two sizes you need to know: length (which is pretty self-explanatory - it's just how long the fastener is) and gauge (which is a bit more nuanced, but generally refers to the thickness of the fastener). Brad nailers often work with 18-gauge (abbreviated 18ga) fasteners; finish nailers often work with 16ga fasteners; pin nailers often work with 20ga - 23ga fasteners.
Staples are great for reupholstering furniture, installing sheathing or installation, or sometimes for installing underlayment. Staples' size is described by three measurements: the length (self-explanatory), the gauge (as discussed above), and the crown, which is the distance between the two prongs of the staples. So a staple might be described as an 18ga 2" 3/8"-crown staple (18-gauge thickness, 2" long, 3/8" crown). Make sure you purchase staples that match your tool in all 3 dimensions.
Pneumatic nailers and staplers hold their fasteners in a magazine that extends downward from the nose of the tool. The higher the capacity, the more fasteners the tool can hold without reloading.
Although they may sound like synonyms, in this case, they mean two different things.
Generally speaking, pneumatic options tend to best suit DIYers or finishing-work professionals, whereas the speed and portability of cordless options may make them more attractive for professionals.
Pneumatic tools require certain ranges of pressure (measured in pounds per square inch, or PSI) and flow rate (measured in cubic feet per minute, or CFM) to function continuously. In order to function properly, they need both simultaneously - the right pressure, and the right flow rate (for example, 1 CFM at 90 PSI). When selecting a compressor, make sure its pressure and flow rate ratings will work with your tool. Usually, the flow rate is the limiting factor.
If your compressor is too small for your tool, you'll have to take breaks while it compresses more air into its tank. This isn't usually an issue for smaller tools such as brad nailers, but for larger or more-intensive tools (think die grinders, roofing nailers, etc.), it can really slow things down to have an undersized compressor. Keep that in mind.
When looking for an air hose, make sure you get one that is long enough to get your pneumatic tool where it needs to go, and that it can handle the pressure and flow rate your tool requires.
Alright, here's the good stuff. Generally, this is pretty straightforward (if you need to reroof your house, get a roofing nailer.), but here are some helpful tips to make sure you choose the right tool for you.
Some tools (for example, the WEN 61741K 4-in-1 18-Gauge Pneumatic Flooring Nailer and Stapler) function as multiple tools in 1. If you have multiple jobs ahead of you, and you're not quite sure what you'll run into, it may be handy to have a tool that can handle multiple applications.
If you're looking for a tool that's well-suited to one particular job, you may want to consider an option that's designed specifically for nailing or stapling.
As mentioned, pneumatic tools tend to be much less expensive than their cordless counterparts, especially when the cost of the batteries (and in some cases, non-reusable compressed gas cartridges) is included. However, pneumatic tools do require air hoses and air compressors to function, which adds to their initial cost.
Other features present on most WEN pneumatic tools include:
There may be other features important to you that we haven't covered here, so keep those in mind as well.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful starting point in your journey to choosing a nailer or stapler. If you have any questions about which WEN tool is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team
]]>When starting your journey, here are some of the important terms you need to know to compare your options.
Table saws are rated by their blade diameter. Most models use a 10" blade, though some smaller models use an 8", 8-1/4", or 8-1/2" blade. The standard arbor size (the size of the hole in the center of the blade) is 5/8". Generally, 10" models are more powerful than 8" to 8-1/2" models, and can handle longer, deeper cuts in harder materials, without bogging down.
Table saws have adjustable fences and rails, which allow you to set up the saw to give maximum support to whatever length or width of workpiece you're cutting. Most table saws' specification lists explicitly state the rip capacity to the left and/or right of the blade. Make sure you get a saw that's large enough to support whatever workpieces you're cutting, or that you have an alternate method of supporting them. Proper support is critical to getting a clean cut while staying as safe as possible.
Table saws usually fall into one of 4 categories: portable or benchtop, jobsite or contractor, hybrid, or cabinet.
The WEN TT1015 2HP jobsite table saw and TT1088 heavy-duty rolling stand (sold separately) make the perfect pair, packing prodigious power in a portable package.
Electric motors are rated by the amount of current they can handle, in amperes (amps). Generally, the higher the amperage, the more powerful the motor; for example, a 10-amp motor won't be able to handle cutting thick hardwoods or hardened stainless steel as well as a 15-amp motor. Most table saws use universal motors, although some hybrid or cabinet-style saws use induction motors for reduced noise and improved longevity.
Now that you know a bit more about table saws in general, you're well on your way to making a good decision. Here are some final questions to keep in mind.
If you'll be cutting small pieces of wood for woodworking projects, or won't use the saw every day, a portable or benchtop model may suit your needs just fine without breaking the bank. If you're a contractor or advanced DIYer, go for a jobsite saw - your back, your schedule, and your crew will thank you for its versatility and power. If you're a professional woodworker, a hybrid or cabinet saw is probably the way to go, since they thrive in demanding environments.
If storage is a concern, a benchtop or jobsite saw is probably the way to go. They're portable and mobile, making them easy to move and put away. If you're in a relatively small shop, the mobility of a hybrid saw may suit you well; if you have a large workshop to fill, then the several square feet a cabinet saw requires may not be an issue.
Corded portable saws tend to be the least expensive models, usually ranging from $100 - $300. Cordless portable saws and jobsite/contractor saws fill in the midrange, and usually go for $300 - $800, depending on the model. Hybrid saws and cabinet saws are at the top of the pole, usually costing $1,500 - $4,500.
Once you've decided on the type of saw you want, consider other factors that may be important, such as:
There may be other things that are important to you that we haven't covered here, so make sure to keep those in mind as well.
Thanks for reading! We hope this has been a helpful starting point in your journey to choosing a table saw. If you have any questions about which WEN table saw is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>When starting your journey, here are some of the important terms you need to know to compare your options.
One of the most important distinctions. Pressure washers simply use a pump to pressurize cold or lukewarm water and spray it out. Power washers use a heating element to heat the water up, which provides extra cleaning power. Got it? Good.
Never use hot water with a pressure washer. Check the water temperature rating listed in your machine's manual.
Pressure washers are primarily described by their pressure ratings, which is the amount of pressure (usually measured in pounds per square inch, or PSI) that they can deliver to the water. Often, pressure washers include a maximum pressure and a rated pressure rating. The maximum pressure is the highest pressure the pressure washer can achieve at any given instant. The rated pressure is the pressure consistently delivered during operation.
Flow rate refers to the amount of water a pressure washer can handle in a certain amount of time. Usually, this is measured in gallons per minute, or GPM. Similar to the pressure ratings, your unit may have a maximum flow rate and a rated flow rate.
The amount of cleaning power you get is a function of both pressure and flow rate. High pressure and high flow rate equals more cleaning power.
Most pressure washers are either gas-powered or electric. Electric pressure washers are often AC-powered, with a power cord, though some are powered by batteries, making them cordless. A comparison is below.
This is perhaps the most important question to address when looking to choose a pressure washer. If you're cleaning concrete or swabbing decks, opt for a high-pressure model. If you're just rinsing off your car or RV, or removing light grime from your siding, a lower-pressure model may be able to handle all you need it to.
Most models come with nozzle attachments, or have an adjustable wand, to regulate the pressure that comes out of the spray gun. You can always dial down the pressure that comes out, but if your washer simply isn't big enough to handle the task you give it, there's no way to increase the pressure, so you may want to err on the side of having more power at your disposal.
Once you've decided what you need to clean, decide on your power source - gas, electric, or battery. Depending on the pressure you need, there may only be one power source available (for example, a gas pressure washer is generally overkill for low-pressure cleaning, so most models in the low-pressure range are electric or cordless). Keep in mind each type's portability, maintenance requirements, and costs.
We hope this has been a helpful starting point in your journey to choosing a pressure washer. If you have any questions about which WEN pressure washer is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>When starting your journey, here are some of the important terms you need to know to compare your options.
Lathes are rated by their swing, which is twice the distance between the spindle's centerline and the bed. This number is the maximum workpiece diameter that can be mounted on the lathe.
Some lathes may also advertise the swing over the banjo, which is twice the distance between the spindle's centerline and the top face of the banjo. The banjo is also known as the tool rest support base.
Finally, the distance between centers is the last number to know - this is the maximum workpiece length that can be turned between centers (that is, between two center inserts in the headstock and the tailstock) on the lathe.
Swing (red arrow) and distance between centers (blue arrows) shown on a WEN LA3424 12" x 18" lathe.
Most lathes are rated in X" x Y" format; for example, the WEN LA3424 12" x 18" lathe shown above has a swing of 12" (6" between the spindle and bed) and a maximum distance between centers of 18".
Lathes are usually described as having a fixed number of speeds (e.g. "5-speed"), or being variable-speed. Fixed-speed lathes have a certain number of speeds at which they can operate, and they cannot operate at any speed between these set speeds. The drive belt between the motor and spindle is mounted on a series of pulleys with various radii; changing the position of the belt changes the spindle's speed. It's a bit like the geartrain on your bike. These lathes are great entry-level options - they're simple, robust, and less expensive than variable-speed lathes, but are less versatile.
Variable-speed lathes, on the other hand, use an electronic controller to vary the spindle's speed to any number within a certain range. This lets you precisely dial in the exact speed you need for any task, from roughing, to detailing, to sanding or finishing. Because of this, however, they tend to be a more expensive.
Electric motors are rated by the amount of current they can handle, in amperes (amps). Generally, the higher the amperage, the more powerful the motor; for example, a 3-amp motor generally won't be able to handle hard, deep cuts in large workpieces as well as a 5-amp motor would.
When choosing a lathe, your first consideration should be space. Do you have only a small amount of room on your bench for a mini lathe? Or would a larger model (perhaps sitting on a lathe stand) fit?
What do you want to make? If you're just turning pens, chess pieces, and other small items, a small lathe should be just the ticket. If you're making baseball bats, large bowls, or other larger projects, or doing any work involving a lathe chuck, opt for a larger model with a more-powerful motor.
Decide whether you want a fixed-speed or variable-speed model. Fixed-speed models, as mentioned above, may be better for beginners, whereas variable-speed models are more suitable for intermediate or advanced turners.
Some WEN lathes are able to accept bed extensions. These are exactly what they sound like - additional bed lengths that bolt onto the end of the bed and give you more length for extra-long workpieces. If you use a lathe stand and want to use a bed extension, you'll need a lathe stand extension as well.
Some accessories are non-negotiable. To get started in turning, you'll need, along with the proper PPE, a good chisel set. From chisels and chucks, to lathe stands and bed extensions, WEN has the accessories you need to bring your projects to life.
We hope this has been a helpful starting point in your journey to choosing a lathe. If you have any questions about which WEN lathe is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>When starting your journey, here are some of the important terms you need to know to compare your options.
Drill presses are rated by their swing, which is twice the distance between the spindle's centerline and the column. This number is the maximum workpiece diameter for which you can drill a hole in the center. For example, a 10-inch drill press has a swing of 10 inches; you could drill a hole in the center of a workpiece up to 10 inches in diameter, and the distance between the spindle's centerline and the column is 5 inches.
Spindle-to-column distance on the WEN 4208T 8-inch 5-speed benchtop drill press is 4 inches.
The second-most-important specification on a drill press is its spindle travel. All drill presses have an extendable quill and spindle, which travels downward from the head when the handles on the side of the head are rotated. The distance the spindle travels is described by this number, and corresponds to the maximum hole depth that can be drilled.
Drill presses are usually described as having a fixed number of speeds (e.g. "5-speed"), or being variable-speed. Fixed-speed drill presses have a certain number of speeds at which they can operate, and they cannot operate at any speed between these set speeds. The drive belt between the motor and spindle is mounted on a series of pulleys with various radii; changing the position of the belt changes the spindle's speed. It's a bit like the geartrain on your bike.
The pulleys on the WEN 4211 5-speed cast iron benchtop drill press.
Variable-speed drill presses, on the other hand, use an electronic or mechanical mechanism to vary the spindle's speed to any number within a certain range. WEN variable-speed drill presses use a robust mechanical mechanism to achieve this, which maximizes torque throughout the drill press' speed range.
If you plan to do a lot of heavy drilling (into very hard material, or with large-diameter bits, such as Forstner bits), look for a drill press that can get down into a low speed range. Generally, the lower the speed, the greater the torque.
Electric motors are rated by the amount of current they can handle, in amperes (amps). Generally, the higher the amperage, the more powerful the motor; for example, a 3-amp motor won't be able to handle drilling into hardwoods with a Forstner bit, or drilling through hardened stainless steel, as well as an 8-amp motor. WEN uses powerful, quiet, low-maintenance induction motors on all our drill presses.
When choosing a drill press, your first consideration should always be space. Do you have the floor space in your workshop for a larger floor-standing model? Or would a smaller, benchtop model suit you better?
How do you plan to use your drill press? Make sure the drill press has the muscle to handle whatever materials you plan to use, as well as the capacity to physically accommodate your workpieces.
Do you need a fixed-speed press, or a variable-speed model? Do you need one with an onboard light for better visibility, or laser crosshairs for quick and accurate positioning, or perhaps a depth stop for easy repeatability? All these features make drilling faster and easier.
Certain accessories are musts - after all, it's hard to drill holes without a drill bit. And to maximize safety, always use a clamp or vise to hold your workpiece, rather than your hand. From drill press vises, cross-slide and tilting vises, and drill press clamps; to drill press tables; to drill bits and Forstner bits; and to keyless chucks, WEN has the accessories you need to fully customize your drill press to your needs.
We hope this has been a helpful starting point in your journey to choosing a drill press. If you have any questions about which WEN drill press is right for you, or need more information, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>At first glance, this is an easy distinction. Woodworking band saws are for woodworking, and metalworking band saws are for metalworking. Simple, right? Mostly. The main differences include:
Most woodworking band saws are vertical band saws - the blade is oriented vertically relative to the table and the floor. The frame is stationary, and the saw doesn't move during operation.
Most metalworking band saws are horizontal band saws - the blade is oriented horizontally relative to the floor. The frame is often movable, and slowly drops down over the course of the cut, using the saw's own weight to help make the cut.
Most woodworking band saws have the blade run through a table, on which a workpiece rests. The operator can make freehand cuts, or use a fence or miter gauge to help make straight cuts, whether mitered or beveled.
On the metalworking side, most saws have the workpiece clamped in a vise, and the band saw frame drops down to help make the cut. Some metalworking band saws also pivot into a vertical orientation for irregular cuts in plate material.
There's really no need for a portable woodworking band saw - you can accomplish the same tasks using a circular saw, track saw, jig saw, table saw, scroll saw, or other saw. But when you're on a job site and have a bunch of electrical conduit or rebar to cut, a portable metal-cutting band saw will be your best friend. It makes overhead cuts and quick rough-cuts incredibly easy with minimal setup. WEN offers both corded and cordless portable metal-cutting band saws.
The WEN 20496 20V Max cordless band saw is both maneuverable and powerful - ideal for tough cuts in tight spaces where no power is available.
Generally, wood is softer than metal. (If you happen to find a case where the opposite is true, you may have a Nobel Prize in your future.) Because of this, woodworking band saws tend to run at higher speeds and use blades with fewer and larger teeth, spaced relatively far apart. Metalworking band saws tend to run at lower speeds, and use blades with more and smaller teeth, spaced relatively close together. Don't try to use a metalworking band saw to cut wood, or a woodworking band saw to cut metal - either way, it won't work well.
When starting your journey, here are some of the important terms you need to know to compare your options.
Band saws are rated in inches. Often, the rating is done by its maximum cut capacity, or by its wheel diameter. So a 14" band saw may have a wheel diameter of 14", or a throat of 14" (more on that in a moment).
Refers to the distance between the blade and the frame. This measurement is usually very close to how band saws are rated; for example, a 10" woodworking band saw may have a throat of 9-1/2" or 10". For vertical band saws, this means you can cut material up to 10" wide. For horizontal band saws, you could cut material up to 10" thick. This is just an example; make sure to carefully read the band saw's advertised specifications to make sure it can physically handle whatever cuts you need to make.
Throat capacity, shown on a WEN BA3962 woodworking band saw.
Throat capacity, shown on a WEN BA4664 metalworking band saw.
Refers to the distance between the top of the table and the bottom of the upper blade guide. More on blade guides in a moment. This is the maximum thickness or width of workpiece that you can cut. On metalworking band saws, it is the maximum distance between the blade guides.
A system of adjustable supports - often ball bearings, but may also be steel or ceramic screws or blocks - to keep the blade running properly and your cuts clean. There is an upper and a lower blade guide on woodworking band saws, and a left and a right blade guide on metalworking band saws.
The upper blade guide on a WEN BA3962 woodworking band saw.
Electric motors are rated by the amount of current they can handle, in amperes (amps). Generally, the higher the amperage, the more powerful the motor; for example, a 5-amp motor won't be able to handle cutting thick hardwoods or hardened stainless steel as well as a 10-amp motor. WEN uses powerful, quiet, low-maintenance induction motors on almost all our stationary band saws.
When choosing a woodworking band saw, your first consideration should always be space. Do you have the floor space in your workshop for a larger floor-standing model? If so, would you need a mobile base to help maximize versatility and portability? Or would a smaller, benchtop model suit you better?
How do you plan to use your band saw? Will you be resawing thick hardwood pieces? Opt for a heavy-duty, floor-standing model with a large cutting depth and powerful motor. But if you'll mostly be cutting out patterns and small workpieces (toys, for example), or working mostly with softwoods, that top-of-the-line model may be overkill. A smaller, less expensive model may be just what you need, and won't cost as much.
The wider the blade (measured from the back, or spine, of the blade, to the teeth), the stiffer it will be. If you're doing a lot of resawing, a wider blade (perhaps 3/4" - 1") will be just what you need to get clean, straight cuts. If you're doing fretwork or small-radius, intricate cuts, you'll need a narrow blade, usually in the range of 1/8" - 1/4". Most WEN band saws can handle a wide range of blade widths. We offer a variety of USA-made replacement band saw blades.
If you're a tradesman, working in overhead or tight spaces, a portable band saw might be the best option. It cuts cleaner and with more control than a reciprocating saw, but doesn't require you to bring the workpiece to the saw. Or if you're just looking for quick-and-dirty cuts on piping or rebar, a portable may be the way to go. Stationary models are better suited for more-precise work, especially if cut pieces will be welded later.
If you go with a portable, make sure to consider whether a cordless model is needed, or if a corded option will get the job done.
Similar to choosing a woodworking band saw, once you've settled on a stationary band saw, space must be your first consideration. Most floor-standing models have wheeled stands, so a mobile base is unnecessary, but do consider the impact it will have on the overall square footage of your shop. Benchtop models are also available for precise work on smaller pieces.
Similar to choosing a woodworking band saw, make sure you go with a saw that can handle whatever you can throw at it. Make sure its maximum cutting capacity is larger than the largest-diameter or widest workpiece you plan to cut, and it has a large enough motor to handle ferrous or work-hardened metals. If you're mostly cutting tubing or rectangular stock, you may not need a saw with a vertical configuration, but when cutting plate, it can come in quite handy.
We hope this has been a helpful starting point in your journey to choosing a band saw. If you have any questions about which WEN band saw is right for you, need more information, or have stumbled across that Nobel Prize-winning wood we mentioned, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
]]>Keep your head. This will help you make better decisions overall. It may just be a short outage, and you'll be back in the warm embrace of 21st-century lighting before you know it.
It may just be a tripped breaker. Check your electrical panel. If any individual circuit is tripped, disconnect any devices that run on that circuit. They could be damaged when power comes back on. Also check to see if street lights are out, or talk to your neighbors, to see if the outage is more widespread than just your home.
You should be able to report the outage, and may be able to get information on possible causes. If there's a hurricane currently knocking down trees outside, there's a good chance that's the culprit.
In the event the power comes back on suddenly, there may be a power surge. The last thing you want is damage to sensitive equipment, like TVs, computers, or other appliances, or a safety problem cropping up, like if an electric oven somehow turns itself on. You may want to leave one lamp plugged in and turned on so you know when the power comes back.
Keep your freezer and refrigerator closed as much as possible. This will keep food as cold as it can be, and buy some extra time before any food or medicines spoil. If the power outage is highly localized, you may be able to buy some ice to keep food refrigerated in the fridge, freezer, or portable coolers. If it's widespread, you may have a hard time finding ice. If you have any doubts about whether your food or medicine is still good, throw it out.
They're safer than candles, and last much longer. If you have extra batteries, get them out now - right now, as you read this - so you don't have to fumble around in the dark if your flashlight batteries die.
Figure out the best room(s) to stay in for the duration of the outage. In summer, the basement will be much more comfortable than the second floor. In winter, an interior room without many doors or windows will be best. Keep blankets, sleeping bags, or layers of clothes handy. Make sure to keep an extra close eye on the elderly, very young, and those with medical conditions. Make sure everyone knows what to do during the outage, as well as when the power comes back. Use your flashlights to play board games, read, tell stories, sing songs, or just talk. Keep morale up, if it's an extended outage. In the event of an extended outage in extremely hot or cold weather, call your local municipality - they may have information available about heating or cooling locations near you.
Read your generator's manual, then read it again. NEVER operate a generator indoors! ALWAYS operate it outside, at least 20 feet away from any doors or windows. Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous, colorless, odorless, tasteless gas.
NEVER connect your generator directly to your home's electrical system, unless you've already had a transfer switch installed by an electrician. A direct connection is called "backfeeding", and is both dangerous and illegal. The generator should only be connected to the transfer switch, or directly to whatever appliances you want to power by extension cords.
If you have any questions about your WEN generator, please contact us. We can be reached at 1-847-429-9263, M - F, 8 - 5 Central time.
For more information, read How to Prepare for a Blackout. If you expect an extended outage, secure a supply of fuel for the generator as soon as feasible.
Keep your phone charged. Only use it to get information and contact others. Now is not the time to try to beat your high score on Minesweeper. If you don't have phone service, coordinate with your neighbors to help each other and establish contact with local authorities. Battery-powered, solar-powered, or windup radios will be helpful. Some walkie-talkies may be able to receive emergency radio broadcasts. Keep an eye on the sky and take shelter if adverse weather threatens.
After the lights come back on, stock up on non-perishable food, drinking water, and medicine. Have a first-aid kit. Have a physical plan written out, and review it with your family regularly. Test your generator and keep it in good working order. Have a battery-powered or windup radio. And check out some of our other helpful articles on getting ready for emergencies.
]]>One of the most important bits of gear you can have when bringing a generator with you on your high-flying adventures, a high-altitude kit will help you squeeze every watt of power out of your WEN generator.
Many WEN generators come with at least one high-altitude kit, and we offer a high-altitude kit for every generator we sell. Each kit consists of a carburetor jet, a bolt gasket, and a bowl gasket. The kit is installed in the carburetor, and adjusts the fuel-air mixture so it's optimized for the lower air pressure found at higher altitudes. Most WEN generators have kits optimized for use between about 3000 - 6000 feet (914 - 1828m), and another for 6000 - 8000 feet (1828 - 2438m). Check the specific altitude ranges that come with your high-altitude kit.
Failure to use a high-altitude kit can cause your generator to run rough, perform weakly, or even suffer damage. Similarly, leaving a high-altitude kit installed at low altitudes can also cause damage. WEN recommends that all high-altitude kits be installed by a professional mechanic. For more information, refer to your generator's owner's manual, or to our handy video on high-altitude kit installation below (click here if the video doesn't show up).
At higher altitudes, there is less air pressure than at sea level, as well as less oxygen. The thinner air causes engine performance to drop and fuel consumption to increase. Even with a high-altitude kit installed, though, the engine's performance will still decrease - the kit just helps limit the decrease. As a general rule of thumb, the power loss for every 1000 feet (305m) above sea level is around 2 - 3.5% with a high-altitude kit installed. So at 5000 feet, the engine would lose between 10% - 17.5% of its power. Without the kit, the losses would be greater.
Additionally, the engine's performance will drop when the ambient temperature is very warm. For every 10 degrees Fahrenheit (~5 degrees C) above about 75 degrees F (~24 degrees C), the engine's performance will drop by 1% - 2%. So on a 95-degree day, the engine would suffer a 2% - 4% drop in performance, compared to a cooler day.
Adjusting expectations of the generator's performance is called derating. The altitude and temperature effects can be added together to get a rough estimate of the generator's derated maximum wattage. For example, let's say it's a 95-degree day in Denver, around 5000 feet of elevation. A generator in those conditions will suffer a loss of about 12% - 21.5% of its power, compared to that same generator at sea level on a 75 degree day.
It's a good idea to keep the worst-case scenario in mind when choosing a generator. If you'll regularly be taking your generator up to high elevations, or running it on very hot days, you'll want to plan accordingly. To do so, follow the steps below.
NOTE: the numbers above are an example, and are intended as a general guideline for making rough estimates. They are not hard-and-fast rules applicable in all situations at all times.
As mentioned above, the high-altitude kit helps adjust the fuel-air mixture and achieve the air pressure that the engine needs to run its best. For that reason, WEN recommends that you always install a high-altitude kit when operating your generator at high altitudes, regardless of the fuel type (gasoline, propane, etc.) being used, and always uninstall it when returning to lower altitudes (below 2000 - 3000 feet). There's no need to adjust the fuel mixture or the propane regulator(s) - just install the high-altitude kit.
Also, keep in mind that even if you don't use gasoline, you'll still use more fuel at high altitudes than at sea level.
Thanks for reading! We hope you found this article helpful, and are more confident about operating your generator wherever your adventures take you.
For more information about high-altitude kits and operating your generator at high altitudes, consult your generator's owner's manual, as well as the instructions that came with your high-altitude kit. If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-232-1195, M - F, 8 - 5 CST, or drop us a message here to speak with our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Happy travels!
]]>Perhaps the most common type of planer or jointer blade, these are exactly as the name suggests - straight and long. They're usually found on planers and jointers best suited to beginning or intermediate woodworkers. They're easy to replace and leave a good general-purpose finish on the wood, making any final sanding a breeze.
Straight blades on planer model PL1303. |
Straight blades on jointer model JT3062. |
Different grades of steel are often available for more choice within the range - some offer better durability or edge retention, others better finish, etc. WEN offers SK5 and M2 planer blades for all our straight-blade thickness planer models, and SK5 blades for our straight-blade jointer. As you gain experience, consider experimenting with different blade materials on different wood species to find the best balance for you.
A step up from straight blades, these blades are found on higher-end machines, and are often preferred by experienced woodworkers for the excellent finish they leave on the wood - in some situations, sanding may not even be necessary. This is because instead of being one continuous piece of steel, they are segmented inserts spaced evenly across the tool's cutterhead. Think of them as the piranha counterpart to the straight blade's shark - they take many small bites out of the wood at a time, instead of one large chomp, producing the aforementioned finish. Additionally, many spiral blades are two- or four-sided, allowing you to rotate the cutting edges and get extended service life from your blades before replacing them. Spiral-blade machines tend to be more expensive than their straight-blade counterparts.
Spiral cutterhead on model PL1326. |
HSS cutting inserts, model BP510H. |
The most premium arrangement, these blades are mounted on specialized cutterheads, with many cutting inserts placed close together and arranged around the cutterhead in a helical pattern. This leaves a superior finish on the workpiece. However, helical cutterheads tend to be very expensive - sometimes more so than an entire thickness planer - and are best suited for professional woodworkers. They are often available as aftermarket accessories.
Example of a helical cutterhead.
We hope this guide has been helpful! WEN offers a variety of straight-blade planers (models PL1252 and PL1303) and jointers (model JT3062) to suit your needs, as well as spiral-blade models (planer model PL1326 and jointer models JT630H and JT833H). If you have any questions about the information in this article, or want help deciding which planer or jointer is right for you, please give us a call at 1-800-232-1195 (M - F, 8 - 5 CST) or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Now go make some sawdust!
]]>At its most basic level, a drill consists of the following components:
The motor gets power from the power source (which could be an AC power cord, a battery pack, or something else) and spins. That turns the gearbox, which drives the chuck. The chuck is the component at the end of the drill that actually grips the drill bit or accessory.
The differences between the tool types are:
Many modern drills are actually drill/drivers, and are great for general-purpose drilling of holes and driving of fasteners. They combine the torque of a drill with the precise control of a driver using a gearbox and clutch. The gearbox reduces the motor speed, and is often controlled by a mechanical switch that gives the tool multiple speed ranges. Within that speed range, many drills and drill/drivers have variable-speed triggers that allow the user to control the bit speed by the amount of pressure applied to the trigger.
Speed range selector switch on a WEN 20V MAX brushless hammer drill, model 20121.
Drill/drivers also feature a clutch with adjustable settings when driving screws or other fasteners. The clutch prevents the tool from applying too much torque and possibly damaging the fastener or the workpiece. Most WEN drills, if they are hammer drills, feature a mode selector ring as well, with icons indicating hammer mode, driving mode, or drilling mode.
Mode selector ring and clutch (numbered) on a WEN 20V MAX brushless hammer drill, model 20121.
Hammer drills are most often drill/drivers with the extra hammering function mentioned above. If you’ll be doing a lot of work in concrete, brick, or other masonry, you’ll need a hammer drill and a special masonry bit. If you don’t plan on doing any work like this, or if you won’t be doing it very often, you may be able to get away with only using a drill/driver. Just remember to take it easy, clear out the hole of any dust and debris as you drill, and let the tool do the work.
A handy chart is provided below for quick reference. When using the clutch, the higher the number, the higher the torque that is allowed. If your drill/driver is struggling with a stubborn screw, consider adjusting the clutch to a higher setting.
Setting | Is the clutch used? | Applications | |
Drilling | Drill bit | No | General-purpose hole-making in wood, drywall, plastic, metal, and more. |
Driving | Screw | Yes | Driving fasteners, tightening nuts, etc. |
Hammer drilling | Hammer | No | Making holes in concrete, bricks, or other masonry. |
We hope this guide has been helpful! If you have any questions about the information in this article, or want to find out more about our 20V MAX line of cordless power tools, please give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Also, check out some of our other handy articles about cordless power tools.
]]>
On the surface, impact drivers and impact wrenches share a lot of similarities. They’re often battery-powered and use a motor to drive a hammer and anvil. The hammer is a spring-loaded block that sits behind the anvil. When the motor spins, the hammer is forced up and over the anvil. When it clears the anvil, the spring causes it to snap back into place, colliding with the anvil and making it rotate. This rotating hammering action is what gives impact drivers and impact wrenches their characteristic loud rattling sound during operation.
WEN 20V MAX impact driver, model 20135 (left), and 20V MAX impact wrench, model 20107 (right).
At this point, however, the similarities start to fade. Impact drivers are lighter-duty tools, and are very good at driving a lot of fasteners very quickly. They usually have a spring-loaded chuck on the end that can accept driver bits. These bits usually come with a 1/4” hex-shaped shank (which is the part that is inserted into the chuck), and are usually specially marked as being rated for impact use.
Impact wrenches are heavier-duty tools, and their anvils reflect that. Usually a solid piece of metal with a 3/8”, 1/2”, or 3/4” square drive, they feature either a hog ring (as on model 20107 shown above) or pin detent to attach to specially-designed impact sockets.
Whether a hog-ring design or a pin-detent design is best for you is a matter of choice. Generally, if you’ll be switching socket sizes often, a hog ring anvil may be easier for quick swaps. If you’ll be up on a ladder, or in a situation where one socket size is required and it needs to stay on no matter what, a pin detent anvil is probably the way to go. Regardless, ALWAYS use impact-rated sockets or accessories when working with one of these tools. Accessories that are not rated for impact duty could shatter under the extreme forces being applied, and could hurt you or others.
Impact drivers and impact wrenches are usually rated according to three main measurements:
Depending on the job at hand, one tool may be a better fit than the other. Below are some common use cases.
Commonly used to drive a lot of fasteners very quickly, or to work in tight spaces. These are great for driving lots of deck screws or small lag bolts, or torquing or loosening fasteners that aren’t extremely tight. Speed is the name of the game here - they deliver a lot of small blows very quickly, and can put out a decent amount of torque.
In contrast to impact drivers, impact wrenches are slower, heavier hitters, throwing haymakers round after round. Popular for automotive work to remove highly-torqued, rusty, or stuck nuts and bolts (or quickly zipping off wheel lug nuts), and for driving large construction fasteners (e.g. long lag bolts into pressure-treated lumber), they’re used when large amounts of torque are required.
In short, these tools, while they look pretty similar, have a lot of differences when you look under the hood. If you have any questions about what tool is right for you, or want to find out more about our 20V MAX line of cordless power tools, please give us a call at 1-800-232-1195 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support time. Also, check out some of our other handy articles about cordless power tools.
]]>Fundamentally, a motor consists of two main parts: a rotor and a stator. The rotor rotates, and the stator is stationary. Simple, right? The trick is getting the rotor to rotate. The principles of electromagnetism tell us that when an electric current is passed through a wire, it generates a magnetic field. Everybody knows that magnetic fields of opposite polarity (north and south) attract one another, and those of identical polarity repel one another. So the secret to controlling the rotation of the rotor is controlling the electricity and the magnetic fields it generates inside the motor.
“Brushed” and “brushless” refer to how the electricity gets into the motor. There are many different subcategories of brushed and brushless motors, so we’ll discuss a general case here.
A brushed motor includes at least two carbon brushes, which are usually rectangular, spring-loaded chunks of graphite that are pressed against a part of the motor called the commutator. The electricity flows through the brushes and into the motor, causing it to rotate. As the motor spins, the brushes will eventually wear down and need to be replaced. In this type of motor, there are many different constructions, but one of the most common types used in cordless power tools is the PMDC (Permanent Magnet Direct Current) construction. In this type of motor, the stator is a set of permanent magnets, and the rotor is a set of stacked steel laminations, wound with wire. Brushed DC motors used in cordless power tools are often described using a standard frame number, such as 735.
A brushless motor, as the name suggests, does not have brushes, and may also be called a BLDC (BrushLess Direct Current) motor. Here, the rotor and stator never make physical contact. One of the most common constructions of brushless motors involves a permanent-magnet rotor, and a stacked-steel-laminate stator, which is wound with sets of wire. Brushless DC motors are described using their stator diameter and length in millimeters; for example, a motor with a 50mm diameter, 25mm long stator would be a 5025 motor.
Brushed motors are easier to control than brushless motors. Often, brushed motors used in cordless power tools are controlled by varying the voltage applied to the motor. The higher the voltage, the faster the motor spins. This ease of control makes them simple and inexpensive.
Brushless motors are more complicated, and require a set of programmed electronics to drive them, making them generally more expensive than brushed motors. In short, a brushless motor includes a sensor that sends feedback to a microcontroller, which decides when and where electricity is applied to the stator windings. The microcontroller sends power to the sets of stator windings in a rotating pattern, going around the stator. This creates a rotating magnetic field, with which the permanent magnets in the rotor attempt to align themselves. The microcontroller gets feedback about the motor’s position from the sensor, and makes any adjustments necessary. This continual adjustment keeps the motor spinning.
Brushed motors are the clear winners when it comes to cost and ease of use. They’re inexpensive, fairly durable, easy to find, and relatively easy to control. However, they’re noisier, less efficient, run hotter, generally larger, and need their brushes replaced eventually.
Brushless motors, on the other hand, are the obvious choice for power, ease of maintenance, efficiency, and longevity. As they proliferate, their costs are going down, making them more and more popular and more competitive with brushed motors. Even though they’re more difficult to control than brushed motors, they make up for that in being quiet, more efficient, virtually maintenance-free, more compact, and longer-lived.
It’s important to note that just because a tool uses a brushed motor, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a bad tool. Similarly, just because a tool uses a brushless motor, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a good tool. However, in a head to head comparison, brushless motors will win almost every time. They can pack more power into the same amount of space, or the same amount of power into less space, than a brushed motor; they last longer; they’re quieter; and they give better battery life.
WEN uses brushless motors in many of our cordless power tools for the reasons mentioned above. If you have any questions about the information in this article, or want to find out more about our 20V MAX or 40V MAX cordless power tool lines, please give us a call at 1-800-232-1195 (M – F, 8 – 5 CST), or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Also, check out some of our other handy articles about cordless power tools.
]]>Make sure your household has the bare essentials covered. Make a physical list of the items and appliances you want to power in case of a power outage, and ensure your generator can power all of them. If others live at home with you, make sure they know how to operate the generator (if able), and are able to physically get to the generator. Consider having a professional electrician install a transfer switch, which makes switching from utility power to generator power a snap.
If you’ve been neglecting your generator for a while, there is no better time than now to fire it up and take it for a spin to make sure everything still works properly. Perform any routine maintenance advised by your owner’s manual or the generator manufacturer. Stick to this schedule, and you shouldn’t have any problems in the future. If your generator won’t even start, here is a list of common reasons it may be having problems. If you need to order parts, tune up your machine, or get repairs done, now is the time to do that, not when the power is out and there’s snow in your boots, soaking those hand-knit socks your grandma made you.
NOTE: NEVER run your generator indoors, or within 20 feet of doors or windows. Generators emit carbon monoxide, which is a colorless, odorless gas.
If your generator runs on propane (LPG) or natural gas, then your fuel supply won’t go bad. It’s a good idea, though, to make sure you have enough on hand to power your chosen appliances for a few days. If your generator runs on gasoline, ensure you have enough on hand, and that it is fresh (within 30 days of purchase). Old, stale gasoline may not work well in your generator, and can lead to problems down the road, like gummed-up carburetors. Fuel stabilizer is your friend, and can help keep gasoline fresher for longer. It’s a good idea to keep some extra oil on hand as well.
No need to get out the decorative throw pillows, but it’s a good idea to make sure your generator has a dedicated area to run in case the power goes out. Make sure you can get to this area easily, you can keep it clear of snow and ice, and the generator is not exposed to snow and ice (since after all, water and electricity don’t play nicely together). Make sure the exhaust pipe cannot get blocked.
NOTE: NEVER run your generator indoors, or within 20 feet of doors or windows. Generators emit carbon monoxide, which is a colorless, odorless gas.
WEN recommends that you run your generator at least once a month to ensure there are no problems. Make sure to plug in a couple of loads and run the generator for at least 15 – 20 minutes. Not only will this keep your generator in tip-top shape, it will help familiarize you with your generator, which means you’ll be confident and ready to handle the worst that winter can throw at you.
WEN offers a range of generators to suit your needs. If you have questions about maintaining, using, or purchasing a WEN generator, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-232-1195, or drop us a message here, to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team. Also, check out some of our other handy articles about generators and preparing for emergencies.
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Check the oil level in the crankcase. Add oil if the level is low. Keep in mind that attempting to run the generator on an uneven surface might cause the low-oil sensor to trigger despite there being enough oil.
Check the gas tank to make sure a sufficient amount of gasoline remains in the tank. Add fresh gasoline when necessary (to avoid clogs and hard starts, do not use old or stale gasoline. If the gasoline is older than two months, replace it with fresh gasoline).
The choke of any engine should be set to “closed” during startups and then moved to “open” once the engine warms up. Depending on the style of your generator, this choke lever may be positioned in a few different places. On many generators, it can be found directly above the air filter on the side of the unit. On others, the choke is builtin to the power control knob (such as with the WEN Inverter series). Either way, it should be set to closed (also referred to as the start or the choke position) when starting the generator. Once the engine ignites, move the choke to the ON/RUN/OPEN position for operation. If the engine is already warm (for instance, if it was running for a while and you are refueling), the choke lever should be set to the RUN (open) position for starting.
If the gas tank is full, but no fuel is getting to the carburetor, there may be a problem with the fuel line or fuel valve. The fuel valve controls the flow of fuel from the gas tank to the carburetor. Make sure that this is set to OPEN to allow fuel to flow into the proper channels. If the valve is set to OPEN but the fuel still does not properly flow, you can do two things. First of all, if there is a vacuum relief valve on top of the gas tank, make sure that it has been opened. Secondly, unplug the outlet hose from the intake side of the fuel valve to see if gasoline is freely flowing or not (have a bucket ready in case the gas flows fine). This will help you determine what part of the fuel line (if any) is clogged up. If there is an in-line fuel filter between the fuel valve and carburetor, also check it to make sure it is not blocked.
If you stored your generator for a long period of time without first draining the carburetor, the odds are high that it may be clogged by old gasoline. To fix this, shut off the fuel valve, and then open the carburetor drain found at the bottom of the carburetor’s bowl. If this still doesn’t work, you can remove the entire bowl from the bottom of the carburetor and clean out any stale fuel. Clean out the main jet (the brass nozzle found in the central stem) with a needle. To avoid this in the future, try to run your generator at least once a month, and never store it for long periods of time without draining the gas tank and the carburetor first. For a video guide on changing your generator’s carburetor, click here.
Overtime, deposits and buildup can appear on the spark plug. To check this, use the spark plug wrench included with your WEN generator to remove the spark plug and check for deposits. Clean the spark plug using a small knife or a similar tool as needed. Make sure the electrode is properly gapped (check the specifications page of your manual to see the proper gap for your particular model). To test the plug, pull the recoil starter while holding the spark plug’s body to the engine crankcase. If the sparks are strong with a blue color, then the ignition coil is good. If there is no spark or if the spark appears weak, remove the spark plug and cap. Put the end of the spark plug wire near the engine’s body and pull the recoil starter to check the ignition coil. If there are now sparks appearing between the spark plug boot and engine, then the spark plug needs to be replaced. If there are no sparks, the ignition coil may need to be replaced.
If the spark plug is properly gapped, deposit-free, and still not igniting, it may be that the low-oil sensor isn’t working correctly. To check this, disconnect the wire coming from the side of the crankcase - usually, it's a black, yellow, or black-and-yellow wire; see the images below. The location of this wire will vary slightly from generator to generator. If the generator starts once this has been unplugged, then the oil sensor is not working. Many times, running the engine with this unplugged for several minutes before reconnecting the oil sensor wire will resolve the problem. Otherwise, the engine may require a complete tear-down in order to replace the oil sensor. Also check out our helpful video on how to disconnect your oil sensor.
For electric start generators, the battery may lose its charge over time due to a lack of use. If this happens, simply start the generator using the pull starter to add juice back into the battery. If a recoil starter is unavailable on the unit, you may need to try alternative methods, such as a third-party battery charger.
Always make sure all electrical devices have been unplugged before starting the generator. You should never have anything plugged into the generator during startups, including vacant extension cords.
The air filter may need to be cleaned or replaced to let the necessary amount of air into the carburetor for ignition. Open up the air filter housing on the side of the generator and check the spongy air filter element inside. Clean or replace as needed. For video instructions on checking and changing a generator’s air filter, click here.
Keep in mind, this is a general overview for generators of all shapes, styles and sizes. For a more specific breakdown of recommended starting and troubleshooting guidelines, refer to the manual of your specific model of generator. After all this, if you are still having trouble getting your generator started, feel free to give us a call at 1-847-429-9263 (M-F 8AM to 5PM CST) or drop us a message here to talk to our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
Do you want to take a generator with you on your camping or RV adventures? Look for something compact, portable, and quiet - if you don't need to power a lot of devices, a portable power station may be a good choice. Are you powering a jobsite? Look for a model with a high wattage, as well as wheels and handles for portability. Are you looking for a generator for home use in case of a power outage? Make sure the one you choose is mobile, and make sure you choose the right voltage.
Once you know how you'll use your generator, take inventory of the items you want to power. For example, it's a good idea to be able to power a refrigerator or freezer (if needed for medical supplies or food), lights, fans, and maybe a TV or computer.
If you want to connect appliances to your generator for home backup, it's a good idea to have a professional electrician install a transfer switch. This is a device that separates the generator from the power grid, and lets you easily choose which source (generator or grid) will power your devices in an emergency. It prevents backfeeding, which is when the generator is illegally connected to the power grid, and could injure or kill utility workers trying to restore power. NEVER connect your generator directly to your home's electrical system without a professionally-installed transfer switch.
Generators are described using their rated power (also known as running power, this is the amount of wattage they can provide continuously) and their surge power (also known as starting power, this is the amount of wattage they can provide for a short time - usually a couple of seconds). Surge power is always higher than rated power. Surge power is needed to start certain devices, especially those with motors or compressors, like power tools, refrigerators, air conditioners, etc. For example, a generator with a rated power of 4500W and surge power of 5500W can provide up to 4500W continuously, and up to 5500W for a short time.
Look at the nameplate label of each device you want to power. Most devices will have their wattage rating printed on the nameplate label. This is the amount of power the device requires, in watts. (If the wattage isn't printed on the label, the voltage and amperage usually will be. Multiply volts by amps to get a good estimate of the wattage - for example, 120 volts x 5 amps is about 600 watts.) Make sure you also note the voltage each device requires. Most household devices (refrigerators, sump pumps, box fans, lights, etc.) run on 120 volt power, but some larger appliances (ovens, dryers, furnaces, well pumps, etc.) may require 240 volt power.
As mentioned before, some devices, especially those with motors (e.g. power tools) or compressors (e.g. air conditioners or refrigerators) may need an additional burst of power to start up, known as surge power. If your device doesn't list its surge power, a quick rule of thumb is to multiply the wattage rating by 3.
To maximize your generator's life, we recommend keeping its maximum load to 90% or less of its rated wattage. Once you've added up all your devices' requirements, multiply this number by 1.1. This is the maximum rated power you'll need. Choose a generator whose rated power is at least this high, and whose surge power is capable of handling your devices' extra requirements.
Inverter generators have been growing more and more popular over the past few years, and for good reasons - they're generally quieter, more compact, better for electronic devices, more fuel-efficient, more modular, and more intelligent than a traditional generator. However, these advantages do come at a higher price tag, and closed-frame inverter generators may be more difficult to work on than traditional generators. Open-frame inverter generators strike a good balance between the two. If you plan to power sensitive electronics, such as TVs, computers, or smart appliances, you'll very likely want to go with an inverter generator. For more information, check out our comparison between inverter generators and traditional generators, as well as our comparison between open-frame and closed-frame inverter generators, and our explanation of how an inverter generator works.
WEN offers a full lineup of single-fuel and dual-fuel generator models. Single-fuel generators run on gasoline only; dual-fuel generators run on gasoline or propane (LPG). Dual-fuel generators are often popular with RVers, since propane is widely available, inexpensive, and doesn't degrade over time like gasoline does. In addition, gasoline may be hard to find during or after an emergency, whereas propane may be easier to find, and can be stored nearly indefinitely.
Some WEN generators offer electric start, which allows you to start your generator with the press of a button or turn of a key. However, this is more expensive than generators with only recoil start, which requires that the engine be started by pulling a rope, like on a gas-engine lawnmower.
Some WEN generators come equipped with a CO Watchdog sensor, which monitors the level of carbon monoxide - a poisonous, odorless, colorless gas produced by all internal combustion engines - around the generator, and automatically shuts down the generator if the level of CO gets too high. WEN generators with an X at the end of their model numbers have a CO sensor. Depending on local laws, your generator may be required to be equipped with a CO sensor.
NOTE: the CO sensor on your generator is not a replacement for an indoor, battery-operated CO sensor. NEVER run your generator indoors, or within 20 feet of doors or windows. Generators emit carbon monoxide, which is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas.
WEN offers many generator accessories, including but not limited to:
If you have any questions after reading this guide, or still aren't quite sure what WEN generator is best for you, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-232-1195 (M-F 8AM to 5PM CST) or drop us a message at orders@wenproducts.com to speak with our friendly and knowledgeable technical support team.
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